Best spinnerbait setup

Best setup for crankbaits, best setup for spinnerbaits. Elite series pro britt myers talks about selecting and using spinnerbaits. The bass spinnerbait setup has been around for decades. Bladed jigs are among the most popular and productive bass baits, essentially combining a spinnerbait, jig, and crankbait into a single package that performs everywhere. I am about to get a crankbait rod and reel, thanks. I bought lots of different rods and wasn't. You can use a spinning setup but only if you are using very small finesse spinnerbaits.

The shimano sellus spinnerbait rod isn't so bad either, but i believe it is 7'0. My specific choice is a cashion rods model mb. Frog fishing is a staple technique anytime you're targeting bass around shallow cover such as grass, wood or manmade cover. The best modification for small spinnerbaits. The action, power, length, and weight stack up perfectly to give you a spinnerbait rod you.

A spinnerbait rod doesn't need to have the very best blank or components to get the job done. He showed me the 6'8 zell rowland spinnerbait rod. This casting rod delivers everything you need from a spinnerbait pole. So wouldn't you want the action in your rod for a chatterbait to be the same? The sane choice is a baitcasting combo, they are easier on the arm when working a lot of water and the thumb control on the spool is a big advantage when working close to cover or structures.

The best spinnerbait rod will have enough backbone to handle the drag that the blades and skirts create when retrieved and also still have a precise casting ability especially of your are mostly making short casts. Close up or playing the short game means casting close to structures like docks or drop offs and all kinds of cover such as weed beds or lilies. The short game needs a shorter rod, a even foot rod might prove a little too awkward when you are right up next to where you are casting.

Conversely a short rod of six feet will not have the same kind of casting range that a longer seven foot rod will have. If you are fishing very large spinnerbaits then you may need to bump it up to a heavy power rating.

I do this sometimes if I was fishing clear water and I hit a section of stained water. Instead of changing baits I just bend the willow blade to give it more thump.

Sometimes you need to mess with it to get the vibration and action that you like but at times it can make a big difference. At times fish want the bait a little more under the water and this technique can just be the ticket. What you want to do is make your cast and reel it just under the surface making it look like a baitfish pushing water.

This technique works great when fishing flats and parallel to cover or shore. If you need to slow it down a tad add a pork frog trailer to it or a twin tail grub. You want to use a bait that has a single large Colorado blade on it for this technique and let the blade break the surface from time to time to change the vibration pattern to draw a following fish to strike.

This works well when you are covering water and when your want fish to react to it. With this technique you want to have smaller blades than normal because it will produce less drag on the bait allowing it to be fished faster.

Sometimes I up the weight to really get it moving fast or add weight to it. You can do this by taking a rubber core bass casting weight and removing the rubber core and clamping it to the hook. Just make sure you use a spinner bait that has a large enough gap so the weight doesn't interfere with the hook.

The smaller blades and heavier bait also works well with deep spinner bait applications. What you want to do is make your cast and burn it in. To make the fish strike or react to the bait you want to either stop the bait from time to time or stop and jerk it to make the blades smack together.

When you rip a spinner bait what your doing is changing the speed of the lure. This change in speed can cause fish to strike. This technique works well on many forms of cover and if you incorporate a pause and twitch to flair the skirt out can be deadly.

What you want to do is make your cast and point the rod to the bait while reeling. Next you sweep the rod to the side like a Carolina rig drag. What I do is on a steady retrieve I pause the bait for a split second and twitch it to make the skirt flair out and the blades to smack together then sweep the rod to make it took like it is trying to get away. When you make your cast you want to crank the bait just high enough in the water column to be able to see the blades flash. Just remember to pause it from time to time to break up the vibration pattern to draw a strike.

What you want to do is make your cast and while reeling the bait jerk it at a rhythm. It sounds strange but it does work at times when fishing around shad schools. This works well with logs that come out from the shore and angle to the bottom. Meaning the end of the log is deeper than the trunk side and not all floating. What you want to do is make your cast to the shore side close to the bank and the log.

You parallel the log letting the blade tick the trunk until it reaches the end. When you bait reaches towards the end you let the lure fade out and slowly run deeper.

This looks like a shad that ran down the edge of the log and fade out into the deeper water. Sometimes bass will hang on the end of the log to intercept the bait. Sometimes when your fishing heavy stained water the fish need a little more racket to find the bait or react to it. This technique works well with hard cover but can work equally well in vegetation at times. What you want to do is make your cast and slowly fade the bait down and let it barely skim and tick the cover.

Each time the bait makes contact it changes the vibration pattern and flares the skirt. You don't want it to dig the bottom just tick it.

This technique works well in stained to muddy conditions and works well in late fall or early spring. With this technique I like to use a short arm single Colorado bladed spinner bait but it can be used with any blade combination. What you want to do is make your cast and reel the lure so that the blades spin just fast enough to keep it on the bottom or at a maintained depth.

Sometimes you might need to change to a larger blade to give it the lift you want. This works well in early winter or in deeper structure fishing. What you want to so is make your cast and let the lure fall to the bottom.

You then hop it off the bottom like you where fishing a worm or Carolina rig making sure that the lure pauses to come back in contact with the bottom.

This is an excellent way to fish around deep brush piles or other deep cover. I tend to like a single blade Colorado short arm spinner bait for this technique because it tends to have a better fall. When your fishing deep ledges like a bluff or creek channel at times a drop technique can be very effective. One technique that works well is to make your cast to the edge of the drop and let it helicopter down.

Sometimes there might be a small shelf that will stick out that your bait will hit. You next raise your rod tip to let the lure work its way to the edge and let it drop again.

You let the bait slowly climb down the drop like if you where worm fishing. You want to make sure the lure hugs the bottom and always stay in contact with the lure to feel the strike. A very productive technique is to bump the cover with your bait. I use this technique around flooded timber but it can be incorporated on any cover.

What your trying to do is make contact to change the vibration pattern of the lure to draw a strike. What you want to do is make your cast beyond the object and while your reeling it in aim it at the target. When the bait smacks the target you change your rod position from pointing at the lure to bring it to the side. What you doing is changing the direction of the bait after the contact. This change of direction with cause a reaction strike. Sometimes you can incorporate a dying shad look by letting the bait drop after the contact.

There are times when you are fishing stained to muddy water where you need to put the bait right on its nose to make them bite it. You are using the spinner bait much like a flipping jig but the difference is your adding more vibration to your offering than a jig would. This technique works well also in areas that are hard to reach and you need pin point accuracy to produce a fish. What you doing is making your pitch or flip into a tight area and letting it fall to the bottom or through a piece of brush.

I tend to use a flipping spin with a single Colorado blade for this technique because it has a strong fiber weed guard because I loose less lures but you can use other lures.